Day 5, August 16, 2007

On the fifth day we covered 240 km and drove from Newton of Ferintosh along the A9 via the Cromarty Firth – Golspie – Dunrobin Castle – Lairg – Falls of Shin – A838 (absolutely beautiful, many curves, no towns, hardly any traffic) – Laxford Bridge – A894 (just as beautiful) – Scourie to Lochinver.

We set off in changeable weather and were soon riding a wave of emotions. After deciding to only view Dunrobin Castle from the outside due to the entrance fees, we headed to Lairg to reach the Falls of Shin The journey there involved a mix of rain and sunshine; April was giving us a taste of August.

Arriving at Shin Falls, we were greeted by about 15 minutes of sunshine and dry weather, and we took the opportunity to take some pictures and wait for the salmon, which at this time of year swim upstream to their spawning grounds, having to jump several cascades along the way. But apparently, the weather was too changeable for the salmon as well; we didn't spot any.

We had barely reached the mopeds again when the next rain clouds spotted us and it started pouring again. Nevertheless, we set off to drive northwest on the A838 – this day will forever be etched in our memories, because from that moment on, the rain never let up. With such fantastic roads and breathtaking landscapes in the heart of the Highlands, this was the absolute worst punishment. It's just another reason to experience this beautiful country again. We drove through stunning valleys, and you could see from afar what awaited us, as one rain cloud after another clung to the mountain peaks and opened the floodgates without restraint. But what could we do? Turning back would have taken too long, and it wasn't any better at the other end of the road.

But despite all the rain, Scottish asphalt pleasantly surprised us; it's somehow different. Even in this constant downpour, no puddles formed on any of the roads, the spray was minimal, the tires still had good grip, and there was no need to brake with extreme caution.

The A838, by the way, was our first single-track road with passing places. These single-track roads are essentially one lane wide. If a vehicle is approaching from the opposite direction, the driver with the passing place (a widening of the road) on their side stops. Oncoming vehicles are relatively rare, but it's advisable to ease off the throttle before bends and crests. There's usually enough room for motorcycles even without a passing place, but only at slow speeds, and oncoming drivers need to be prepared, as they will naturally use the full width of the road if no one is in sight.

Unfortunately, there isn't much to report from that day, as the incessant rain drove us to quickly find a dry and warm spot. To make matters worse, it gradually became increasingly windy, which didn't exactly improve our well-being, and it required even more concentration. Finally, in Scourie on the A894, a nice bistro beckoned, where we had a snack and a hot coffee to warm up a bit.

The rain showed no mercy that day, so we drove straight to our accommodation, the Veyatie in Lochinver. This B&B is run by Dawn and Mel Chapman. As everywhere else, we received a very warm welcome, and were greeted with hot coffee and cake while enjoying a pleasant chat with Mel.

After a hot shower, we set off on foot into town (about 1.5 km) to grab a bite to eat. The rain had stopped in the meantime, and we were starting to think it was some kind of divine intervention. There are two restaurants in Lochinver that are pretty much the same price. So, losing a few pounds shouldn't be a problem.🙂

240 km in rain and wind is exhausting and not exactly fun, but the roads were definitely suitable. So, time to rest, relax, and hope for better weather tomorrow. And while we're at it, let's quickly make some coffee; we hadn't had enough that day. By the way, all the B&Bs have kettles in the rooms, and instant coffee, hot chocolate, tea, biscuits, sugar, and milk are provided.

So that our things are as dry as possible tomorrow and no cold is coming on, off to bed.